Walking
Hungary may be a small and easy to get around, but it has 13,000 kilometres of marked trails through forests, plains and hills for walkers to explore. The best walking is to be found in the highlands to the north, which have been shaped largely by volcanic activity. As well as providing a close-up view of Hungary's diverse flora and fauna, many of these paths were used by the Romans and Turks, and many routes are marked by ancient forts and traditional villages. For a comprehensive guide to walking in Hungary, order a copy of Walking in Hungary, published by Cicerone before you arrive. The guide not only plots your course, it also provides fascinating historical and geological information, as well as details of the sights you will encounter along the way.
The worldwide phenomenon of geocaching is also taking hold in Hungary. The concept is simple, and all you need is an Internet connection at home, a GPS (Global Satellite Positioning) system and a detailed map. The first step is to visit an online geocaching community and find the coordinates of a “cache” – a box hidden by another geocacher, who will usually post a brief description of the site. Once you have located the cache, you can help yourself to its contents, as long as you leave something there in return. You are also asked to leave a note on the website on your return.
Budapest and the Danube Bend
The Visegrád and Pilis hills lie between Budapest and Esztergom and were formed by volcanic activity and craggy limestone respectively, making them popular with climbers. This topography also provides spectacular views, especially when you throw in the Danube Bend for good measure. The area was originally settled by the Romans and some of the trails can be traced back to their heyday. The Börzsöny hills further north are also prime hiking territory.
Balaton
The hills to the north of Balaton, most notably the volcanic plateau of Badacsony, make great walking country, and the views of the lake below are nothing short of spectacular. The hillsides are also famous for their vineyards, and there is always somewhere to stop off for a refreshing glass of fröcs (wine spritzer). The woodland Bakony range lies further to the north and is also worth exploring.
Pannonia (Transdanubia)
Transdanubia, split down the middle by Lake Balaton, offers very contrasting terrain. Trails through the Mecsek hills, near the town of Pécs some 140 kilometres south of Budapest, follow deep valleys and long spurs inhabited by beech and oak. The Vértes hills in the north of the region provide a comprehensive cross-section of Hungarian topography, including boggy fields, dry valleys, wooded hills and rocky outcrops.
The Northern Uplands
Enthusiastic Hungarian hikers will inevitably head to the Mátra, Bükk and Zemplén hills in the north east of the country.The Bükk plateau, the oldest range in Hungary, begins at the famous vineyards of Eger and extends as far as Miskolc, dipping into wooded valleys as it goes. The area is famous for its intriguing Beehive Stones, eroded ryolite columns more than ten metres high, and its caves, castles and peasant Palóc villages.The 40 kilometre ridge of the Mátra was formed by a chain of volcanoes that erupted some 13 million years ago. Kékes is Hungary’s highest point and is one of very few mountains used for skiing, but it is more suitable for peering over the border into Slovakia to the north and towards the Great Plain to the south. Best of all, the entire range is easily accessible from Budapest’s Népstadion bus station.
The Zemplén range between the vineyards of Tokaj on the Slovakian border is an altogether more challenging prospect, partly because it is not easily accessible. This is real rural Hungary, rolling countryside filled with welcoming villages. In contrast to its tranquillity today, the area's reserves of gold, silver and copper lent it a strategic importance in the middle ages. As a result, a number of fortresses and castle ruins are still standing and the Zemplén is home to a number of ethnic minorities.
